Geology

Pre-Christian times and St Colman

Celtic Cross

Killaha Abbey

The White Church

Medieval life in Milltown – the flax industry

The Protestant Church of Kilcoleman – a time of renewed prosperity

The Mass Rock

Milltown during the famine

James Prendergast and the Famine Letters

Recovery after the famine

Ebenezer Turner’s Diaries (written 1869- 1875)

Important landmarks in past 100 years

The Parish of Kilcolman


Geology
DolmonThe geology of the Maine valley goes back over 440 million years to the Palaeozoic era: limestone rocks from the Carboniferous period, old red sandstone from the Devonian period, purple rocks from the Silurian period. The glaciated valleys and cooms of Sliabh Mish and the Macgillycuddys Reeks which form a dramatic backdrop to the town were created during the Ice Age. There are many examples of archaeological artefacts from the Mesolithic age, the Neolithic age, the Bronze and the Iron ages: there are ring forts at Lissnanouel, Ardmeelode, Kilderry, Farnas, Brackhill and Corcaboy. There are Ogham Stones and Standing Stones at Knockavota and Boolteens and a Dolmen stone. Back to Top.

Pre-Christian times and St Colman
Milltown was originally in the parish of Kilcolman, after St Colman but the existence of Ogham Stones and Dolmen in the parish would point to the presence of people living in the area in pre-Christian times. In the present day parish of Milltown there are 2 Reeksplaces which indicate early Christian roots, Kilcolman (or St Colmans Church) and Kilbonnane (or St Benignus’s Church built in the parish of Listry, the ruins of the first stone church still stand in Kilbonane graveyard). Both of these saints may have helped evangelise part of Kerry. St Colman was inspired to set up a monastery in the area which was bounded by two rivers, the Maine and the Laune and sheltered by two ranges of mountains, Slieve Mish and the Reeks. Beyond them lay the ocean, the boundary of their known world. His monastery would have been small, perhaps a circular enclosure rather like a ring fort with an oratory, a residence for the clerics or maybe some small cells, a kitchen and eventually a school. Numbers would have grown and businesses would have spring up to provide necessities.

Some early inhabitants of the parish were the O'Connells, ancestors of the Liberator, Daniel O Connell, who remained in possession until the Norman invasion. In 1169 an Anglo-Norman force under Jusiciar Geoffrey de Marisco, Strongbow's nephew, moved west along the Maine River and took over the parish lands of Kilcolman beside the river. The Fitzgeralds, a Norman family built a castle at Callinafercy. The road from Milltown to Killarney, dating from 1300, was one of the oldest roads in the county -today this road is the hub of Kerry joining North Kerry to South Kerry, East Kerry to West Kerry. Back to Top.

Killaha Abbey
The remains of the Abbey of Killaha stand at the western end of the Kilcolman demesne, half a mile from Milltown, on the banks of the Maine with the historic Slieve Mish rising boldly to the north. Surrounded by rich green pastures, and sheltered by groves of sycamore and elm, it still retains traces of its former glory. It was erected in 1215 on the site of the Abbey of Saint Coleman by Geoffrey de Marisco for the Canons Regular of Saint Augustine. They were one of the largest monastic families of the medieval church. It was dedicated to our Blessed Lady. Geoffrey de Marisco held the title of Chief Governor of Ireland in the absence of the King of England and he built a number of castles along the river Maine including that at Castleisland in 1226. His brother Hervey de Marisco was one of the first Norman Knights who came to Ireland and who acquired large tracts of land in Tipperary, Kerry and Wexford.

KillahaSadly the Augustinian Order in Ireland left us very few records. The Canons Regular united industrious habits of life with contemplation and probably spent part of their time in manual. Lands were tilled and woods planted and the surroundings became quickly changed. The large field, still known as the Abbey orchard is believed to have been the fruit garden of the monks. An older Milltown generation remembered having seen within it a large stone evidently intended for a cider press and said to have been the one in use at the monastery. It is known that the abbey was a wealthy foundation, well supported by donations and tithes. The would have been a spacious priory where the monks lived, with refectory, dormitories, a study hall, the abbey proper with its altar and sanctuary, its stalls and kneelers, holy water stoup and baptismal font. There would have been adjoining farm buildings, cattle byres, granary and barns for the farm workers and fields of hops which they sued for making beer, their staple drink. Merchants would have passed over the mountain passes from Valentia where traders were based from Spain and troops would have passed through on their way to the castle in Castlemaine. There would have been much passing traffic on the solid main road which came from Dublin and Limerick. The whole world seemed to pass this way and would have been glad to find a village there. There would have been a great bustle of activity, the hum of industry – with the river quay in use for the unloading of merchandise. The monks were Anglo-Norman and may have spoken Anglo-Saxon but the Normans had a penchant for language and may have learned Irish in an effort to beak down the language and cultural barriers. We have no idea how they were regarded by the local people.

A Leper Hospital existed in medieval times near to the abbey and it is mentioned in the state Papers of Elizabeth 1’s time – but the site of it today is unclear. Leper hospital were not unusual at the time – the unfortunate people were untouchables and would have been under the protection of the Priory.By the 16th century it was deserted.

AbbeyThe Abbey is thought to have been a place for pilgrimage and various improvements were made over the years including the beautiful east window. However in 1576, the abbey was suppressed along with many others all over Ireland, in by Elizabeth 1st. This marked the start of along period of deteriorating and decay culminating in the present ruined walls of the once thriving Abbey and Priory. Ownership of the buildings and land passed to Thomas Clinton, then to Captain Thomas Spring. Later the lands passed to the Godfrey family – Major John Godfrey being an officer in the Cromwellian army. The church is the only part of the original abbey buildings to survive.

Over the past 15 years, local people have worked tirelessly to fundraise in order to restore the Abbey in general but in particular the famous East Window. A great deal of this work has been carried out voluntarily. Back to Top.

White ChurchThe White Church
A short distance from Killaha are the beautiful ruins of the White Church – sadly nothing at all is known of its origins. Back to Top.


Medieval life in Milltown – the flax industry
Medieval life in Milltown was busy and probably comfortable for many of the inhabitants. It would have been centred around the priory. A family of McCrohans came from Valentia, a renowned trading centre to begin the linen trade in Milltown. They grew flax on heavy wet ground and these plants were then pulled and set to soak in streams. The following processes would have required a large local workforce – mostly women’s work which was weaving. Woad and madder were grown to colour the woven calico for clothes and the finest threads were woven into church vestments and altar cloths. Milltown became known all over Europe for the excellence and high quality of the work. Today’s newly opened tourism development, Bleach Fields, stands on the site of the McCrohans original Flax and Linen Company. Back to Top.

The Mass Rock
One of Milltown’s most historic and also most beautiful places is the Mass Rock or Poul an Aifrinn in Killaclohane Wood. A large block heart-shaped of sandstone, in a little lonely glen there, served as an altar in the Penal Days. The place has been revered down the Mass Rockgenerations by the people of Milltown and the surrounding localities. When Killaha Abbey was no longer available to the Augustinian Fathers, it is likely that several of them would have stayed in safe houses in the neighbourhood to look after their flock. We know that Fr Thadeus Moriarty became a Dominican priest and administered the sacraments to the people of Milltown. The Cromwellians were at this time seeking to destroy the Catholic Church and by some means, the authorities got word of this Mass centre and on the Feast of the Assumption 1653, soldiers fell on the assembled congregation, arresting the celebrant, Father Thaddeus Moriarty. The Dominican was led off to prison in Ross Castle, the stronghold on the shores of the Lakes of Killarney. He was brought before Governor Nelson and condemned to death. After a two month period of imprisonment and ill-treatment, he was hanged at Martyr’s Hill, Killarney, where the Friary is now situated on October 15th 1653.

History was recalled on a Sunday evening, 7th June 1971 when the people of Milltown and the surrounding parishes celebrated Mass once more at the Mass Rock with the Bishop of Kerry (Dr. E. Casey) and local priests. The chalice used in the Mass was Father Thaddeus Moriarty’s own, a simple silver cup. Mass is now celebrated annually and a forest walk around the area of the Mass Rock, is one of the highlights of a visit to Milltown. Back to Top.

The Protestant Church of Kilcoleman – a time of renewed prosperity
In 1819, Sir John Godfrey gave land and money in order to begin the building of a new church. Under the Cromwellian plantation all of Kerry was parcelled out as payments due to the soldiers who had fought for Cromwell and this is how Kilcolman parish fell to the Kilcolemanlot of Colonel John Godfrey. He seems to have lived only occasionally on his lands, remaining in Dublin and London for official duties and is mentioned in official letters as kind and tolerant. His son William appears to have settled in Milltown, building a fine house. His son, also Sir John, fell into debt and tried to set up small industries in Milltown such as linen-making again. He employed the well-known engineer Nimmo to draw up plans for a mill and waterways. His wife Lady Godfrey worked with the local clergy to convince the villagers that the dungheaps whicch stood in front of almost every house were a danger to health and the couple began small schools for Milltown children of both religions. By the late 1700s Milltown began to prosper again and the village was alive with industry – sword-making, arms-making, agricultural implants, barrels for butter, wheel-making, blacksmiths, linen-spinners and weavers.

The church has a lofty square bell tower and faces onto the main street of Milltown. Inside there is a plain room, with half panelled walls and a charming diagonally-timbered roof. Originally there was a gallery, later removed entered by a narrow stair from the entrance porch. The church has not been used for religious ceremonies for many years and for the past 5 years has been home to Milltown’s Organic Market. Back to Top.

Milltown during the famine
In 1839 immediately before the famine, we know that Callinafercy and Castlemaine Quays could handle 100 ton vessels and were used for the export of corn and the import of coal and salt. Milltown as a centre of population was thriving.

When one looks at census data on details of the population in each townland in Milltown and Listry parishes between 1841 and 1871, it casts considerable light on the effects of the famine in Milltown. The figures of Milltown and Listry appear to reflect the national experience generally – but some townlands fared much worse than others. For example, the population of Rathpook West seems to have evaporated almost to the point of extinction. Both Milltownand Listry experienced a fairly rapid recovery in the years immediately after the famine. We can only speculate as to their fate – many would be fortunate to catch an emigrant ship to the New World, some would have sought refuge in the workhouse and many others would have died. Back to Top.

James Prendergast and the Famine Letters
In October 1845 James Prendergast of Bleach Road, Milltown, wrote to his children in
Boston describing a “blight” that threatened the potato harvest. That letter began a 5-year chronicle of the famine and the efforts of the Prendergasts, their family and neighbours to survive. The original letters, found in a Boston basement, are preserved at the Burn’s Library, Boston. Ed McCannon, Professor of History at Stonehill College, Boston, visited Milltown in July 1996 and kindly submitted photos of the originals. Some extracts of this moving account of life in Milltown during the famine are shown below:

August 20th 1842 …we have a good reek of turf in the garden…also I have sufficient potatoes until Christmas…

June 12th 1843…we have some nice hams of old sound bacon waiting for your arrival…

December 3rd 1843…Dan O’Connell the liberator was on his trial in Dublin this past time for trason…

May 24th 1844…your brother Maurice…is jobbing in pigs and cattle…he is sowing a good garden…

December 6th 1844…Dear Thomas you speak of death being amongst us, we have no case of this kind thank God…

May 21st 1845…From Jeremiah Connor of Milltown, Publican begs you to let him know …whether that county would be a good place for him to send his oldest son…

August 9th 1845…she would live more comfortably by begging among her neighbours…

October 25th 1845…The beginning of the harvest was very promising, the Crops in general had a very rich appearance and it was generally expected that next season would be very plentiful throughout the Kingdom. It is dreaded that nothing less than famine must prevail next summer…

December 27th 1845…But before Spetemeber it was discovered that the potato crop was rotting in the ground…

August 11th 1846…Relief Committees were formed in every locality and the Bord of Works empowered them to repoar byeroads…to eploy the labouring classes young and old…

November 20th 1846… We entreat you to write on receipt of this and ease our troubled minds…The state of this Country is beyond description…

April 21st 1847…your brother Michael left this place Easter Monday to sail for America…we pressed him tog o as we knew that if he remained, what he had would be spent and he should remain the rest of his days in misery…

July 28th 1847…Also your Mother and I feel very uneasy on account of your Brother Michael about the 27th March last he left home…Maurice and all his family were successively lying in fever…

August 21st 1847…From this accounts daily arriving here if the great mortality prevailing in America, we gave up Michael as lost but thank the great God, we are now easy as we are sure that he is well and with ye…

September 24th 1847…Maurice is in raptures for saying ye sent for his Son James and the Boy himself is most anxious for the call…

October 29th 1848…They had some meetings and speeches down the Country. Some of the leaders were apprehended and tried, some transported…workhouses are scarcely sufficient…

Prendergast LetterDecember 15th 1848…I attempted to write my name and tho I was supported by Maurice and your mother I was unable to finish it

(James Prendergast dies and Elizabeth his wife continues writing to his family)

December 24th 1848…I had not a single shilling to bury him but Nelly said she plenty and that she would see him respectably interned as if her husband were at home and she fulfilled her word…

February 23rd 1850…I have no greater wish than to enjoy a portion of the same grave so my dear child I am fully determined to remain until that period…

August 7th 1850…The blight came early this season and it is thought the potato crop is lost…

August 19th 1850…I have another cause of great pleasure. Namely your sending for John’s little Orphan…

September 20th 1850… (Liverpool) …I wish to let you know that we are here 7 days under heavy cost waiting until the ship sails…Back to Top.

Recovery after the famine
In the years after the famine, Milltown gradually picked itself up and it had its own station on the Great Southern and Western Railway which ran from Farranfore to Valentia in the years from1885 to1960.

We can see that by 1886, the community was thriving as we have a list of “noteable people” where a wide variety of different crafts, professions and institutions are represented:
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Postmistress, medical officer, Registrar, Relieving Officer, Clerk Petty Sessions, Civil Bill Officers, Constabulary Sergeant, Commissioner of Affidavits, various gentry and clergy, Presentation Convent, Presentation monastery, 3 Schools (Catholic male – Presentation brothers, Catholic female - Nuns Presentation Convent and Protestant), Hotel, Auctioneer, Bakers (including Larkin’s which still operates successfully today!), 5 listed car owners, corn merchant, draper, 3 dressmakers and milliners, 15 grocers, 3 ironmongers, 18 tradespeople including bootmakers, carpenters, cartwrights, tinsmiths, painters, coopers, nailmakers, blacksmiths, tailor, 3 victuallers, 11 vintners, and 9 principal farmers. Back to Top.


Ebenezer Turner’s Diaries (written 1869- 1875)
Ebenezer Turner came to Milltown in 1869, employed by the Revenue Service and resided in Church Street. His diaries entitled “Six Years in Ireland” was found in an Edinburgh library. There follows some extracts from his diaries which offer a unique glimpse into what life in Milltow was like in those times:

Turner“The rules of the Revenue Service require an Officer to remain one year in a place before asking away. On reaching Milltown in the middle of a blustering March day (travelling from Killarney in a covered car like nothing so much as a small prison van…Milltown had a Nunnery whose inmates taught the girls in the adjoining school. It also had a few Christian Brothers who taught the boys. The Nuns seemed cheerful creatures and were glad to show ladies even of a heretical persuasion over the premises…Milltown is a place of some 700 or 800 inhabitants…These houses were built by an enterprising inhabitant in the bad times of 1846-1848 when labour was paid for at the rate of sixpence a day…The food of the Irish peasantry is simple, consisting chiefly potatoes boiled in their jackets with a “stone in the middle” (i.e. a hard centre)…Dulse (a kind of seaweed) is eagerly eaten as an appetizer, a pennyworth being bought from a street vendor and stuffed into pockets. Porter is a very common average, and whiskey of course…Bakig is done in an iron utensil called a Bastable oven…To own or occupy a bit of land is the ambition of every Irishman…The population of the district consisted chiefly of small farmers and labourers, small tradesmen, carters, turf cutters and sellers, artisans in a small way…A pig usually shared a corner of the one room, fowls commonly perched on the rafters: and frequently is made for a donkey, a goat and as I have seen, a cow…The first time I saw the very worthy parish priest, Father Batt, (this is short for Bartholomew: in Kerry the priests are called after their Christian names: in most other parts by their surnames) he was brandishing a big stick…The chapel was at the foot of our garden and we were kept awake all night by fresh outbreaks of noisy grief as a new-comer joined the band of mourners…we could not understand a loud drumming sound: but later found that it was occasioned by the people beating their hand on the coffin with great force…see women walking along a road with their boots slung over their shoulders, until near a town when they would sit down and put them on. About their own houses the women mostly and the children always went bare-footed…I recall getting a ton of coals from Tralee across the Slieve Mish mountain at a cost of some forty-four shillings…Back to Top.

Important landmarks this century
Electricity came to the town in 1934. The Muintuir na Tire Parish Hall/Community was built in 1957 and the mid Kerry Mart was opened in 1959. The Milltown Credit Union was established in 1970, the Scouts/Girl guides and Brownies started in 1976 and the Community Games in 1985. Milltown was twinned with St. Nicholas du Pelem in France in 1985. Infomration on the setting up of Milltown’s National Schools and Secondary School can be found under Education. Some of its musical history can be found under Music and its sporting history under Sport. Back to Top.


The Parish of Kilcolman
The original parish of Kilcolman was divided into 18 townlands and the table below gives the original Irish version plus an English translation:
Present day name Irish Meaning
Abbeylands Fearann na Mainstreach Lands of the Abbey
Ardmeelode Ard Mioloid Millet’s Hill
Ballymacandy Baile Mac Anda Town of Mc Andy
Ballyoutra Baile Uachtrach Upper Town
Ballyvirrane Baile Bhiorain Thorn Hill
Brakchill Breach Choill Speckled wood
Callinafercy Caladh na Feirce Marsh of the Ferry
Cloonmore Cluain Mor Great Meadow
Farranamanagh Fearann Manach Land of the Monks
Killacloghane Cill Cloghane Church of Stony Ford
Kilcolman Cill Cholmain St Colman’s Church
Kilburn Coill Brain Wood of the Edge
Kilderry Cill Doire Church of Oak Wood
Knockavota Cnoc a Mhota Hill of the Moat
Knockagarrane Cnoc a Garrain Hill of the Shrubbery
Knockreagh Cnoc Riach Greyish Hill
Lyre Ladhar Fork
Milltown Baile an Muilinn Town of the Mill
Rathpook Rath Puch Fort of the Fairies
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Copyright 2004 © Alison Winfield, Martin O'Grady & Paula Tiller. All rights reserved.